Desert Trip ( part 2)

People are generally very nice and happy to help me. As a foreigner, I’m often being looked at or even stared at, even in Beijing sometimes but in the small towns it almost becomes a joke. Something they look at me like I’m coming out of UFO. In those cases, I make sure that it becomes a joke. I give them huge and exaggerated smiles with a hand wave which almost always makes them laugh and smile. It is most particularly the case with young Chinese girl who tend to be very shy. The slightest naughty look and they explode in laughers with their hand over their face trying in vain to hide their reaction. It’s hilarious! Sometimes, one of them, feeling a bit more adventurous, tries to convince her friends to go talk to the foreigner. So it is not rare that people approach me to ask me where I’m from, what am I doing in China, etc. … To travel alone like that helps me learn and practice my Chinese a lot. Normally I would tend to rely on my friends that can speak much better than me to deal with everything but this time it’s all up to me and that’s a good thing.

In fact, I’m not totally alone. While travelling you often meet new companions for the road. At the moment, I’m with Raymond, a Chinese guy that also landed at the farmer’s family a few days earlier. Together, we spend the entire day in the small town of Zhangye waiting for our train to Dunhuang. Once we arrive at destination, my Chinese comrade is much more in a hurry and even stressed, about visiting the area immediately than I am. So I let him go while I settle down at the hostel for an intensive internet session. After barely week without internet, my hands are almost shaking from the withdrawal. Ok well maybe I’m exaggerating a bit but still, I’m in dire need of emailing, chatting, facebooking, or simply of connecting. I thus busy myself at it for a few hours in the hostel’s beautifully decorated, Chinese style inner courtyard based literally at the foothill of some of China’s, if not of the world’s, highest sand dunes. I have reached my destination and it is quite impressive.

Later in the day, I leave to explore the nice little town of Dunhuang. People are nice and most importantly, a lot less disturbed about getting their picture taken than Beijingners. So I take full advantage of it. Towards the end of the day, I get an urge for some spicy chicken wings accompanied by a cold beer on a terrace. I find it all on a cute little slightly touristy looking street. The atmosphere and the owners are quite charming. I sit comfortably while people around take an amused look at me. I eat my wings with appetite until I ask about the price. Normally, for this kind of meal it’s not even worth asking about that since it’s so cheap. I have a slight jaw drop when I find out that they are at least 2 to 3 times what I was expected. Still not a fortune, mind you, but just by principle, I find that a bit much. I remind myself to try to appreciate my last bites nonetheless by telling myself to wait, to take my time and see what would happen.

While I’m sipping on my second, and most likely my last, big beer in front of my big empty table, when a group of 5 or 6 Chinese come in wondering where to seat. Feeling social, I invite them to sit with me but they go for the inside of the restaurant. A few minutes later, one of them comes back outside and sits with me. We try to have a chat and when I ask him what he does for work, he shows me his vehicle, a police SUV. He then invites me to join his friends, 2 other men and a woman, at his table. The guy immediately to my right can say a few English words so we talk a little while the other one keeps us downing shoots of beer. Here people most often serves themselves small glasses that they chug after saying: “Gan bei!”, the equivalent of “Cheers!” Beer bottles and chicken wing skewers just keep coming. We are all a little tipsy and my neighbour is barely able to contain his emotions while explaining me, being a Canadian, how every single Chinese person knows and praise Dr. Bethune (click for more details). The police man stays a bit in retreat but still tries to extirpate information out of me, things like, where am I staying and what’s my phone number. I only give extremely vague answers which is not difficult to do with my basic Mandarin level. Sometimes, it’s better not to understand… They explain me that he is the local “Ge ge” (brother) or “Da ge” (big brother). From what I heard since I been in China, this kind of character, most often government officials or police men that come in like royalty with their court of friends expecting to be well served free of charge, is quite common. In the West we would call that corruption but here, it seems to be almost normal. It’s only a question of making sure that everything runs smoothly in the right direction and to have good relations with people of influence. It attracts favours and keeps problems at bay… They call that having “Guanxi” and it is of a capital importance when it comes to making business in China. Normally I would find that most unacceptable but this I’m also raking the benefice since I am now also friend of the “Dage” my bill merges with his, so it’s all free. I finish the evening very happily meandering the streets of Dunhuang a little tipsy.
Evidently, this town capitalises on tourism. The prices clearly reflect that. I’m still lucky that it’s low season for another few weeks; otherwise some things would go up if not double in price. There’s even an entrance fee to see the desert. To be honest, there’s also some sort of temple board by a moon crescent lake nearby. Still, I find that a bit exaggerated since all I’m really interested to see is the desert itself, not that temple. So I take on to go climb a dude beyond the fenced off area. Climbing sand dunes is not complicated but not breezy either. You make 3 steps and come down 2… Nonetheless, I’m happy to be here. Once on top of the dune, I can even see in the temple that I’m not supposed to see since I didn’t pay. The wind blows more and more sand and the setting sun gradually disappears.

On the way back, I come across several famers diving their motorcycle and followed by caravans of camels. They are going back home after a day’s work at the touristy area. I stop at a farm to take some photos and we start negotiating for an overnight camel trip in the desert. The hostel I’m staying at also offers that trip but there again, it’s a bit too pricy. We leave it at that for now with the hope that the weather and visibility a t some point in the few days will allow for a beautiful sunset.

The youth hostel, although quite charming, stays rather empty during the first few days and until three other travellers: a French, a German and a Colombian, make their appearance. Together, we go pay a visit to the famous Mogao Caves. The entrance fee was a bit much and our guide very ordinary so let’s move on…

Now that we are four, we have a bit more leverage to negotiate a better rate with the farmer and camel owner. It’s not easy but we finally agree on a price and everybody is happy. The first moments riding the camels certainly make a strong impression. They are big animals and when they decide to freak out, you better hold on tight… So much so that after a little while, 2 of us, the 2 Europeans not to name them… ;-) decide without regrets to make the rest of the way on foot. We end up not having enough time to get really far since we encounter a few glitches. The ATV supposedly breaks down before we even get out of the village. One of the camels is not in a cooperative mind set. So much so, that he makes it clearly known to our guide by regurgitating his last meal onto his arms and shoulders. All of that aside, the experience is well worth it. Well, maybe not for the guide but we have fun. After a very basic meal composed and crackers and cookies bought at the last minute, we set off to climb one of the dunes in total darkness. Barefoot in the fine sand, warm wind blows, it’s nirvana…

The next day, after a short camel ride back to the farm, we pay our dues to our guide and head out to town. It is our last day in Dunhuang. We are set to leave town several hours later so we start with a dumplings (baozi) and beer breakfast. I have so much time on my hands that I decide to go back to the train ticket office to see if I could switch for an earlier train. At the counter there’s a few Chinese men trying to buy tickets. There are in fact train tickets agents and are all squished up the window and could not care less about lining up. They nonetheless let me talk to the lady and even help me organise everything. We talk and make jokes and get friendly. So much so that the most mafia looking of them wants to take me to the local whore house. I thankfully decline the offer laughing my ass off.
Once that’s all settled, I head back to meet the others in a coffee place where we spend most of the afternoon waiting for departure. While we wait, an intense sand storm, the likes of which I had never seen, suddenly breaks out all over town. We can barely see 30 or 40 meters in front of us. It’s amazingly dense and intense. Apparently, this desert city sees sand storms of this magnitude only 3 to 4 times a year.
I have to share a cab to a nearby small town to catch my train back to Beijing. There again the sand storm rages and the visibility is so bad that it reminds me snow storms from back home. After a few hours spent in a super cheap hotel I finally embark on my train for the last stretch. The train ride is long and uneventful. Home sweet home back in Beijing, but not for long…

Desert Trip ( part 1)

I’ve always had a certain interest for deserts whit out really knowing why. The Gobi desert, one of the world’s biggest, lies in part in China. In fact, almost the whole northern part of China is quite dry and in many places, totally desert. Having one again the urge for travels, I once again decide to leave and seek adventure and of course, without much of plan. All I know is that I want to see big sand dunes and from what I have been told, the biggest ones are in Dunhuang. I first have to go to Jianyuguan and there take a transfer. So a few days before leaving, I pass by Beijing Central Train Station to buy a ticket. The big departure towards the unknown is fixed to next Sunday at noon.

The train is probably the most enjoyable and affordable way to travel in China, especially when you can get a bed. Once comfortably installed, I gradually get to meet with the 5 other people whom I sharing this cabin with. There are all Chinese of course, 2 couples and one other guy whom quickly moves to the neighbours’ to play cards and drink white alcohol (54%) called “Baijio” It is absolutely undrinkable but Chinese, mostly men, seem to like it. At the very least, it is a kind of rite of passage and is almost unavoidable amongst business men. To do business in China, you have to be able to drink large quantities of Baijio and never ever refuse a cigarette.

On our side, I am being asked all the usual questions: What country am I from? How long have you been in China? What am I doing here? Do I like China? Etc… Luckily, one of them, Li Tao, can speak a few words of English, about as much as I can speak Chinese which is not a lot. With a bit of efforts on both sides, we eventually get to understand each other.

It is very interesting to watch the scenery go by. It feels good to get away from the big city of Beijing for a change. The contrast is simply enormous. Rural China is remarkably much poorer. Even there, we can see a lot of cell phone networking companies’ publicity sings painted on clay house walls. On other instances, we come across big modern building and huge monuments crowned with chromed statues lost in the most basic countryside. I can’t avoid asking myself what on earth these things doing there? The contrasts and contradictions abound everywhere and in all directions.

Some32 hours after my departure from Beijing, I finally arrive in Jiayuguan. With the help of a cabin neighbour, I make it to the hotel that my friend Li Tao had recommended me. At a first glance, the hotel and the city both seem to be without great interests to me. It is past 9 PM now and I leave on a quest for cold beer. It is at the back of a dark alley that I find a cluster of small skewers eating places that I find it. Two cooks invite me to their table to chit chat, or at least try. After my beer I return to my most ordinary hotel room for the night.

The next morning, while I was searching around for breakfast, I passed in front of a photo printer shop. A particularly beautiful photo attracts my attention. It resembles a bit to the Grand Canyon but inversed, that is to say, orange striped mountains. I ask them: Is it far? Is it easy to get there? It seems that it is not so I kindly as the clerk to write me on the route to take on a piece of paper. Of course I can’t read it at all but this piece of paper becomes nonetheless very important since it is the only clue I have about where I want to go. Back at my hotel, I pack my stuff and I walk to the Central Bus Station. I show them my piece of paper and they give me a ticket. Lucky, my bus is just about to leave. Four and a half hours later, we are in another little town. I have no idea where I am and I’m being told that this is my stop and I have to get off. A happy looking lady is right there so I show her my magic note: “I want to go there…” She is nice enough to take me a few meters farther to the local bus station where once again, after showing those scribbling I’m being given yet another bus ticket. This time it is packed with people. The landscapes are immense, flat, and very dry. The only other places I’ve seen such a large and wide horizon were on water far away from shore and in the Canadian prairies. The sky is huge, with a perfectly flat horizon. The ground is most often very rocky, it feels like another world. In the distance, I can vaguely glimpse at some high snowy peaks. We are so minuscule and insignificant in our bus, lost in the middle of an arid sea.

This time, it is in a small rustic village that I’m being told to get off. Every look turns to me, at the very back end of the bus when I have to sneak my way through a very crowded central aisle. It’s about 18:30 and there’s not the shadow of a restaurant and even less of a hotel. All I see is a big board with a similar picture to the one that first inspired this small detour. Luckily, as I’m walking towards it, a young man comes to me and invites me to follow him to his house. It has a typically Chinese inner courtyard and is very inviting with all its trees in blossom. They are farmers that also make office of hostel most particularly aimed at photographers on the hunt for beautiful images. They have big prints on all the walls.

The sun is just starting to come down, so I ask him if we can go check it out. We get on his motorcycle and we head to the mountains. Quickly, I realize the luck I had to find this trail and to have followed it. It was well worth it. The view is truly splendid. Finally, I find myself in a totally natural environment, far away from the hectic life of the big cities like Beijing. I’m lost in the mountains, in the middle of nowhere and it feels great.
The place is so charming and the people so welcoming that I decide to stay a few days. Even though it is only for a few days, it is interesting to live on a farm. They cultivate their own vegetables; farm their own cows, lambs and chicken. They even have 2 camels at the back for those who would like to take pictures of them amongst the mountains. They all work hard and are visibly in good shape.

The visibility is not at its best during the second and third day due to sand storms although in fact, in looks more like fog than sand. Having thus a bit of spare time, I spend my afternoons, against their will, to give them a hand which makes them laugh more than anything. “We” build some kind of outdoor sink and washing station with bricks and concrete.

They speak Chinese with an accent that I don’t understand very well. The boy of the family can only say very few words of English. The experience of travelling alone is an excellent occasion to practice and keep it all in my RAM memory if I can say. Without wanting to fool myself too much, since I’m obviously still quite limited, I realise that my classes are now bearing fruit. I encourage myself by the fact that I’m able to make myself understood relatively often. Communication is never easy but I still surprise myself since it is at least to some extent possible.

Harbin's International Ice Festival

It’s been 3 months already since my last blog post. I’m not particularly proud of it but, as I often pointed it out, no matter where you settle down, routines sneak up on you whether you want it or not. I no longer have an impression of exotic travels anymore; it’s simply daily life now. On the other hand, I still feel that life here is a bit more stimulating or at least entertaining. I don’t know if it’s the general effervescence of the city or the jovial expat community, but there’s no time for boredom. Thus the last few months could be summarised by dinner with friends followed by drinks in town, organised events and of course parties, and all that sprinkled with photo contracts and other little jobs. There would be many little stories and adventures to tell but all that now falls in the ordinary category and therefore not destined for this blog… However, my last little trip is most suited.

Each year since 1985, with the exception of a few editions dating back from before the Cultural Revolution, there’s The International Ice Festival of Harbin, in the North-East part of China. It attracts people from a bit of everywhere including my friend Jeff and I from Beijing. The only problem is that we decide to leave just before the most important Chinese Holiday, The Chinese New Year, also called The Spring Festival. That implies the world’s largest annual human migration. Everyone is on the move, leaving the big cities to go back to their respective hometown to visit their family during their long holiday. So obviously, all the trains are packed and of course we don’t prepare too much in advance. As one would expect, there are no available tickets from Beijing to Harbin but only to Shenyang, a city half way to Harbin. We decide to take a chance nonetheless, hoping that there would be more availability from there on. Luckily, Jeff has some friends, Alex and his wife Jessica, living in Shenyang and offer us to stay a night at the place if needs be.

We arrive in Shenyang in the early evening. First thing we do, check for train tickets to Harbin and thankfully, there are some available. The train leaves the next morning so we happily accept Jeff’s friends’ invitation to stay the night. They received us very well indeed and we each had our own room and double bed.


We arrive in Harbin the next afternoon. We find ourselves a small hotel room near the train station. After a little break, we dress up with warm clothes to brave the cold weather, snack on some dumplings, and embark on our quest of finding the first of 3 ice sculptures sites. As we walk around, I quickly realise that Harbin is a much bigger city than I had anticipated and even wished for, as I was hoping for some quiet small town. We also notice the architecture has a definite European and Russian influence to it which is interesting.

We eventually find the site in question. As soon as we arrive, it’s pretty clear that the theme revolves around Disney and that they definitively paid the bill. The statues, or maybe it’d be more appropriate to call them structure, castles, boats, big slides and so on, are nonetheless quite impressive. They are all illuminated from within and magically gorgeous.

The following day, ready once again to brave the intense cold, we take the road towards the biggest and most famous of the 3 sites. It’s a little bit out of town but we make it there no problem by public bus. We get there in the middle afternoon which is a bit too early since the real magic comes along with the night. It’s at that time that all the ice buildings brighten up with all the colors of the rainbow. So meanwhile we walk stroll around, it’s still quite impressive, and we eventually stumble upon a skating rig. The traditional skates that we are used too don’t seem to be very popular here, as far as I’ve seen so far anyway. Instead they use some modified bicycles with blades. They work rather well, until you want to turn or break, which explains why they are so much fun, but still, they are also much easier to operate than skates. At dusk, the real beauty of the plain unveils. It suddenly feels completely different and full of live.


























































After the whole spent outside in Harbin’s cold air, we decide to spend the night in a Chinese spa. It’s a new experience for me, even though they are very popular and everywhere in China. In my view, these are somewhat weird in concept. In fact they simply are public baths, with segregated sexes of course, with showers, saunas, hot pools and all the stuff to clean and relax yourself. After you are done with that part, they provide you with a pyjama and you can then move on to the commune dining / buffet area, the game room, or television and couches area. It seems to be a rather popular family activity where everyone is walking around in pyjamas in what could resemble or feel like a hotel. One of the stranger sides of it all is that, despite their familial dimension, pretty much all these places offer “special ending” massages and other “services” for an extra fee of course. In other words, there are activities for all family members… As far as we are concerned, we are more than satisfied with the most basic package, which is cheaper than a hotel room and offers us 3 meal buffets and the possibility to stay and enjoy the facilities for a whole 24 hours. We thus sleep the night on some comfy couches. For those whom are interested while traveling in China, it’s a real bargain.


Twenty-four hours of intense relaxation later, we slowly take the way back towards the train station. We decide to make a stop in Shenyang, take advantage of Alex’s and Jessica’s generous hospitality to visit the city a bit more. The first day, we go check out the local Forbidden City. It was built before the current and much bigger Beijing one. China’s capital has not always been Beijing. In fact, it moved several times through the ages. The rest of the city appears to us as being very similar to many other “mi-size” (half a dozen million habitants) industrial cities in China. Unimpressed, we take our last train ride back to Beijing the following evening.













































Since my return to Beijing, it’s pretty much the same routine that continues. We are presently towards the end of the Spring Festival festivities (check the blog entry “The Spring Festival!” from February 2008). I restarted to take Mandarin lessons. It’s slowly sinking in… I’m also preparing to give photography classes throughout the month. So life continues and I hope to post more blog entries before too too long this time… ;-)

All thanks to Jeff Levinson and http://www.lunetours.com/ for the great planning and helpful guiding of this trip.